7 Enchanting Days on the Emerald Isle

After visiting Scotland (see related post), I wasn’t sure if our time in Ireland would measure up. I needn’t have worried! Our 7 days on the Emerald Isle was enchanting with so many wonderful things to do and experience.

My visit to Ireland was part of a two week trip with my mom and aunt who are both in their 70s. We visited Scotland first, and then flew to Dublin. Our goal was to see as much of the country as possible in 7 days, focusing on the most frequented tourist sites and beautiful scenery. We had an ambitious itinerary and already had been traveling hard for a week. So we were glad to have hired a driver/guide. This itinerary is also possible (and much less expensive!) with a rental car.

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Day 1 – Arrive in Dublin

Since we had just been on a whirlwind tour of Scotland, we planned an easy start for our Ireland leg. As a result, day 1 of our 7 days on the Emerald Isle wasn’t very enchanting! Still, it was nice to have only one major thing to do that day! We took a midday Aer Lingus flight from Edinburgh to Dublin. Upon arrival, we transferred to our hotel.

We originally had Guinness Storehouse on our itinerary. It’s on many “must-see” lists, so obviously I had to see it! But then I came to my senses and realized that 1) I don’t like Guinness, 2) I’m traveling with two women who don’t even like beer, and 3) none of us really care about seeing this site. Plus, we could really use a little down time.

Unfortunately, the day proved to be less than restful. We had a delayed flight, and then our luggage didn’t appear on the carousel until more than an hour after we landed. What is supposed to be an easy one hour flight became an all day affair! Sometimes travel is like this.

Dublin Hotel

We stayed at Cassidy’s Hotel which is located in the city center just over half a mile from the Temple Bar area. The location of this hotel is fabulous. But I can’t recommend it for two reasons. First, the hotel doesn’t have air-conditioning and the rooms were hot. It might be OK in winter, but we just couldn’t get the rooms cool enough for 60 degree days. They did provide a oscillating fan for our rooms, which helped. Second, the Wi-Fi signal was very weak. It’s rare to have such poor Wi-Fi in hotels today.

Day 2 – Dublin City Tour

We explored Dublin on day 2 with a private car and driver and a tour guide. This was easier for us since my travel companions have some mobility issues. You can see the same sites with a hop-on/hop-off bus tour.

Our tour started on the beautiful Trinity College campus. We wandered around the main entrance area and heard some of the history of the school. Then we saw the Book of Kells. This remarkable book of the four Gospels dates from 800 AD. Vellum created from the skin of 150 calves creates the paper for the pages of the book. No one knows if a single or multiple artisans were responsible for all of the beautiful writing and images. Visitors get to see two pages each day, and we saw two pages from Luke 24 about the entombment of Christ. We were happy to see one illustrated page!

After seeing the Book of Kells, we went into the Trinity College Old Library. Containing over 200,000 books, the library is a phenomenal sight. It is a massive space with many ancient leather-bound books and that distinct dusty old book/library smell. While I like reading books on a Kindle or an iPad Mini better, there’s nothing quite like books!

Next we visited two parks. Merrion Square Park is in an area of beautiful Georgian houses. The highlight was seeing an unusual statue of Oscar Wilde in the area of the park outside the house he grew up in. Oscar is lounging out on a rock, and there’s another statue of his wife nearby looking back at him.

In St. Stephen’s Green, we saw lovely gardens as well as a lake with swans and water birds. The most sobering site is a statue dedicated to the many Irish impacted by the Potato Famine.

We also toured Dublin Castle. Unfortunately, due to COVID restrictions, we were only able to visit the State Apartments. The Medieval Undercroft and Chapel Royal are currently closed to tourists. I was sorry not to see the Viking Excavation site in the Medieval Undercroft. The Chapel Royal also looks stunning in photos. I guess these are just two good reasons to back to Dublin one day!

Still, it was fun to tour the State Apartments and compare them to the Royal Palace at Edinburgh Castle. The State Apartments date from the 18th century and are more modern than the Royal Palace at Edinburgh Castle. But they are mostly unfurnished and house a collection of art. Even without furniture, the walls, ceilings, and fixtures in each room are breathtaking. We particularly enjoyed the opulence of the furnished drawing room and many beautiful plaster ceilings.

We also visited Christ Church Cathedral. Originally a Viking church, the structure is almost 1,000 years old! I particularly enjoyed exploring the crypt. The vaulted ceilings and beautiful tiled floor of the cathedral are amazing.

Perhaps the weirdest exhibit is the mummified bodies of a cat and a rat found in an organ when it was dismantled and moved during an 1870s cathedral restoration project. Called Tom and Jerry by the locals, it’s speculated that the rat sought shelter in the organ during a chase, the cat followed it, and they could not get out. Due to the lack of oxygen in the organ case, they were mummified.

Our final stop of the day was the National Museum of Ireland. I went specifically to see the bog bodies, but we also enjoyed looking at many other things the peat bogs have preserved. We saw a wooden wheel and tracks, a Viking long boat, bog butter (butter was stored in bogs to keep it fresh – someone forgot about this stash!), and many other artifacts. We also saw a fantastic collection of gold jewelry and artifacts. The museum also has an amazing amount of Viking artifacts, including a huge Viking skeleton posed with his iron sword. The building that houses the museum itself is worth seeing with beautiful mosaic tile floors.

Throughout the day, our guide emphasized that the history of Ireland is defined by it’s relationship with England. As the original English colony, Ireland has long fought to preserve its independence and has fought against the English domination and assumptions that their culture is more primitive than the English.

Day 3 – In Route to County Kerry

After our full day of Dublin touring, we were ready for a little scenery and a lot of sitting in the car! We spent day 3 of our 7 enchanting days on the Emerald Isle on the road in route to County Kerry and seeing sights along the way. We enjoyed seeing many shades of green all over the countryside, and amazingly yellow fields of rapeseed.

Our first stop was the Rock of Cashel. This stunning castle was the location where in the 5th century, St. Patrick met and converted to Christianity Aenghus the King of Munster. It was amazing to see the medieval buildings that make up the castle complex. The structure is dedicated to the Church and served as a religious site for most of its history. This is evident by the many carvings of the Crucifixion, Apostles, and religious men.

Next, we visited Blarney Castle near Cork. Blarney Castle was built in the early 1200s but most of what stands today was built in the 15th century. We toured the castle rooms and walked a bit in the gardens. Harry Potter fans will enjoy visiting the Poison Garden to see plants such as Mandrake, Wormwood, and Wolfsbane. The garden included marijuana, tobacco, and tea (caffeine) as poisons, too!

But our main reason for stopping there was the biggest tourist trap in Ireland – kissing the Blarney Stone! This is supposed to give you the gift of gab, which I desperately need. I find it much easier to be eloquent in writing (although readers may beg to disagree!). COVID had disrupted this activity for awhile, but it’s back! I was assured by our driver/guide that the rumor I heard about local boys peeing on the stone wasn’t true. Plus workers were carefully wiping it down between each visitor. So I went ahead and gave it a big smooch. Maybe it will help! Please be advised if you visit during the tourist season that you may have a lengthy wait for your turn. I was able to walk right up, but we passed 90, 60 and 30 minute wait time signs reminiscent of amusement parks!

I was definitely grateful they didn’t lower me down to kiss the stone as they did in the olden days!

Killarney Hotel

When we reached Killarney, we checked into our hotel, Randles Court. We were staying here for three days, the longest hotel stay of our trip. It was great to unpack and settle in a bit! This is a great hotel to linger at a bit. It even has a spa! The hotel has beautiful furniture, art and sculptures. There lobby looks like the drawing rooms of the fancy palaces and houses we’ve visited.

There are a few downsides of this hotel. The location is a bit further away from the main streets of town. It’s still easy to walk to restaurants and shops, but there are many more hotel options closer. It’s not air-conditioned. It does feature large windows and has fans upon request, so we were comfortable. Finally, make sure to request a room with a shower rather than a tub as the tub is very difficult to step into if you have mobility issues.

Day 4 – Ring of Kerry

When researching must-dos in Ireland, the Ring of Kerry shows up on every list. I’ll be honest – I wasn’t quite sure why or what we would see! But I placed it on our itinerary, and we are so glad I did. The entire day was filled with breathtaking views and bucolic scenes, some of the best we saw during our 7 enchanting days on the Emerald Isle! Since we had our own car and driver, it was an easy day to enjoy. You can also book a day tour from Killarney or rent a car. The experience is definitely better when you have your own vehicle, but you shouldn’t miss it even if a big bus tour is your only option.

The Ring of Kerry is a circular route around Ireland’s Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range featuring the highest peak in Ireland, Corran Tuathail. There are several villages along the route, including Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahirciveen, Waterville, and Sneem Village featuring brightly painted homes. The drive features panoramic views of the Dingle Peninsula, Dingle Bay, peat bogs, mountains, Molls Gap and Ladies View.

We went around the entire loop and spent most of our time enjoying views from the car and taking some quick photo stops. If you stop everywhere, the Ring of Kerry can take several days. So we visited only three sites.

First, we visited the Kerry Bog Village consisting of several original thatched homes and other structures. Furnished with rugged antiques, they gave us a glimpse of what life might be like as a crofter in 19th century Ireland.

The Kenmare Stone Circle and fairy trees was the highlight of the day. These Bronze Age stones are very different than those we saw in Scotland. There are a total of 15 stones surrounding an egg shaped center burial stone. This is an incredibly peaceful and reverent site – we didn’t see any Outlander inspired touch-the-stones shenanigans here!

Three fairy trees stand near the stones. They are filled with little cards where people wrote their wishes.

I fully agree with the sentiments on this one!

In contrast to the hatched houses, our final stop of the day featured great opulence. Muckross House is a beautifully furnished 1840s manor house where Queen Victoria once visited. We were able to see most of the house, including bathrooms and the servants’ areas.

Our day ended with a taste of Irish entertainment at the Celtic Steps stage show. Back from a 29 month (!) hiatus due to COVID, the musicians and dancers didn’t miss a beat. The music was fabulous and the dancers’ fancy footwork was amazing. This is definitely a show for the tourist, but I do recommend it if you are interested in traditional music and dance. Unlike many similar experiences, it does not include a mediocre meal. Thus, the price is extremely reasonable.

Day 5 – Dingle Peninsula

Day 5 of our 7 enchanting days in Ireland started with a Jaunting Carriage Ride through Killarney National Park to Ross Castle. Riding a horse drawn cart, we enjoyed views of the magnificent national park and the amazing Irish Red and Silka deer grazing. Our cart driver, called a Jarvey, kept us entertained with jokes, names of the various plants and flowers, and history. Our ride gave us a view of the 15th century Ross Castle. We didn’t have time to visit inside the castle, though. We needed to get back on the road with our driver/guide to visit the Dingle Peninsula.

The Dingle Peninsula is compared to the Ring of Kerry, and some people say you can choose one or the other. We definitely wanted to do both. See my related post Ring of Kerry vs. Dingle Peninsula for a complete comparison/contrast and my thoughts on which you should choose if you only have time to visit one.

Ireland’s most westerly point, the Dingle Peninsula is part of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way and features rugged coastlines, beautiful beaches, and charming villages. Driving the narrow and winding roads are an adventure, so I was happy to have my wristbands to prevent motion sickness!

On the way to Dingle, I finally saw what I expected out of Ireland – fields of varying vibrant green hues!

Our first stop was Inch Beach where we saw what is probably a beautiful beach in the summer. There was a group of teenagers learning to surf. They are far more hardy than we are – that water is COLD!

We visited the colorful village of Dingle and had ice cream at Murphy’s. I had read about how wonderful Murphy’s Ice Cream is, and it lived up to the hype. Made with milk from Irish cattle, it has a high fat content and is very creamy. They have many unusual flavors and let us try several. I selected Dingle Sea Salt (the salt came straight from the nearby Dingle Bay) and Caramel Honeycomb for my scoops, but I also tried Irish Brown Bread and Raisin Rum flavors. Then we poked around in a few shops. These shops had a few unique items we had not seen in other places.

Fortified, we spent several hours on the Slea Head Loop. This was the most beautiful scenery of Ireland so far!

We made two stops on the journey. Dún Beag Fort is a promontory fort located on a sheer cliff. Originally constructed in the 8th and 9th centuries, the fort is remarkably intact. Sadly, it’s location on a cliff means that it won’t be with us much longer – erosion will take its toll.

The main site I wanted to see in Dingle was beehive huts, so we also stopped at Caher Conor. This impressive site is an example of the structures people lived in prior to 1200 AD. These structures were created without mortar by stacking stones in a circular fashion with each layer closer to the center until they reach the top.

We had planned to visit one more site, but these sites are not very accessible. So we decided to head back to the town of Dingle for a late lunch and another browse in the stores. Dingle is a charming village. It would be nice to stay there a night or two!

Day 6 – In Route to Galway

We checked out of our Killarney hotel and drove towards Galway. On the way, we drove through Adare. We admired the picturesque thatched roof houses that people still live in today.

Near Adare, we stopped for a few hours to explore Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. The castle was built in the 15th century, and the folk park includes 30 buildings showcasing life at all levels of society. We were able to see how all of the people in 19th century Ireland lived, from the poorest to the richest. The castle is full of winding spiral staircases and ancient furniture. Unlike the ruins we have seen, it’s easier to see how people lived here. But our favorite part of Bunratty is the Folk Park area where we wandered through thatched cottages and old houses and schoolhouses and village stores. We wished we had more time to explore all 30 buildings and attend their medieval banquet held most nights!

Next, we visited the amazing Cliffs of Moher. As an avid fan of the Princess Bride, it was great to see the Cliffs of Insanity in person! Words and pictures can’t do this location justice. It’s definitely a must-see. The Visitor’s Centre looks like Frodo Baggins home in the Lord of the Rings. The Moher Cliffs were also featured in the Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince movie. I’m looking forward to re-watching all of these movies to remember this day in Ireland! Most guides tell you to view the cliffs from the left path, but I highly recommend exploring both paths for the best views.

We continued our journey through The Burren. It looks like you are driving through the surface of the moon, although the green goodness of Ireland still shows through. There is a long and complex geographical explanation for the Burren, but most travelers will just enjoy the contrast of this landscape to other areas of Ireland!

It was a long day, but we finally made it to Galway. We stayed in the Harbour Hotel. This contemporary hotel was our final home away from home in Ireland. This hotel features quirky rooms with unusual features. My room had a slanted wall with two skylights instead of windows. I felt tucked away in an attic room!

Day 7 – Connemara Excursion

Our final full day in Ireland was spent driving the Clifton Sky Road and exploring Connemara National Park. The Clifton Sky Road features amazing scenery with views of Connemara countryside, the Atlantic Ocean, the many islands that dot the coast of Ireland, and the coastline. This was a terrific way to spend our last day of 7 enchanting days on the Emerald Isle.

Connemara National Park was once the part of the Kylemore Abbey Estate. Built in the 1860s, the Abbey was once a manor house and is now home to Ireland’s only community of Benedictine nuns. It was also a private school for girls until 2010. The house is gorgeous and explains the tragic history of its owners, both the people who built the manor house and the Benedictine nuns who now live there.

Perhaps our favorite part was the “cathedral in miniature” dedicated to Margaret Henry. Margaret was the wife of the Mitchell Henry who built Kylemore Abbey. She died of dysentery on a trip to Egypt. It’s a gorgeous little church, perhaps the best we have seen in all of our travels!

Visitors to Kylemore Abbey enjoy delicious foods at their on-site restaurant. We created our own afternoon high tea with a sandwich, scones, and dessert. The gift shop has pottery, soaps and chocolate handmade by the nuns. We didn’t have room in our luggage for any more souvenirs, unfortunately.

Returning to Galway, we packed up and prepared for our long flight home. We were up early to drive to Dublin for our midday flight. It was a great two weeks, and I can’t decide if Scotland or Ireland was better. Perhaps that question will be the topic of my next post!

What Went Well

In general, I thought our itinerary was good. We visited all the major sites and I don’t really feel like we left anything undone. We had some long days, but we do feel like we saw much of the beautiful landscape of Ireland. Our hotels were nice and comfortable throughout.

What We Would We Do Differently?

Generally our itinerary worked well. We saw all the major highlights and enjoyed beautiful scenery, which were our primary goals for the trip. In hindsight, I would probably reverse our itinerary to allow more time at Bunratty Castle and to attend their medieval banquet. So our itinerary would look like this:

Sunday – fly to Dublin, drive 2.5 hours to Galway, overnight in Galway

Monday – Connemara National Park , Clifden Sky Road, Kylemore Abbey, overnight in Galway

Tuesday – The Burren, Cliffs of Moher, Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, Bunratty Medieval Banquet, overnight in Bunratty

Wednesday – Drive to Killarney, Ring of Kerry sites between Killarney and Kenmar, overnight in Killarney

Thursday – Drive Ring of Kerry to Dingle Peninsula, overnight in Killarney

Friday – Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel, overnight in Dublin

Saturday – Dublin city tour, overnight in Dublin

Sunday – Fly Home

We hired a driver/guide on this trip. Unfortunately, our provided driver/guide was neither a good driver nor a good guide. He was pleasant enough, and I enjoyed his stories of growing up in Ireland. I would have preferred to have self-driven rather than have this particular driver. After spending two weeks in Ireland and Scotland, I do feel like I could drive here. After observing our drivers and getting a feel for how the roads are, I would not hesitate to drive here in the future.

Have you visited Ireland?

If so, what sites did you see? How long did you stay? What do you wish you would (or would not) have done? Tell us in the comments below. Also, sign up for our newsletter so you never miss a post!