Cuba has called to me since I was a young girl watching “I Love Lucy” reruns. Ricky Ricardo (a.k.a. Desi Arnez) and his Cuban rhythms sparked my imagination. Of course, reality was not quite like those 1950s sitcoms, but it was oh, so much better. My sister and I spent a night on the town in Havana just before COVID rocked our world.
Earlier in the Day
This particular night out in Havana occurred while on a cruise with my parents and sister. Upon arrival, we took an organized tour to hit the highlights of the city without too much walking required to see everything. The tour took us to El Morro, Fusterlandia, Revolución Square, and El Malecón. We also visited a Cuban cigar shop where Melissa was a big spender!
The cruise offered an excursion to the Tropicana Cabaret that evening. While I couldn’t help but hear Ricky Ricardo performing Babalu in my head, I knew this version of the Tropicana was different from the fictional one on TV. So, after the bus tour, my parents went back the ship and Melissa and I hit the streets for our one night on the town in Old Havana!
Habana Vieja (Old Havana) at Night
The cruise terminal is very close to Habana Vieja (Old Town). This is great for cruise travelers wishing to soak in Havana nightlife. Upon exiting customs and integration, we were hit in the face with the beauty of the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asís and its iconic fountain.
It was interesting to see local families hanging out in the Plaza de San Francisco and around the fountain despite the hour!
From the Plaza de San Francisco we took a short walk down Calle Oficios to the Plaza de Armas and then up Calle Obispo. This was clearly the place to be on a Friday night in Havana. Obispo Street is lined with bars and restaurants featuring great music and dancing. And the people (both locals and tourists) were out in droves.
El Floridita
We made our way down Obispo to historic El Floridita. This Havana institution was known as “la cuna del daiquiri,” (the cradle of the daiquiri). The bartender, Constantino Ribalaigua Vert, was called “El Rey de los Coteleros,” (The Cocktail King of Cuba). The American-style bar opened in 1817. It was a 10-minute stroll through from Hotel Ambos Mundos where Ernest Hemingway often stayed when in Havana. Hemingway brought all his visiting friends to the Floridita to have drinks. A few notable guests to the Floridita include Ava Gardner and John Wayne. Spencer Tracy supposedly convinced Hemingway that he should play the part of Santiago from The Old Man in the Sea at the Floridita.
It is easy to spot the pink stucco building with a lighted sign out front. The old wooden bar remains, and at the end of the counter is a life-size bronze statue of Ernest Hemingway. The live music was great, and the bartenders put on a lively show mixing the famous drinks.
Bodequita del Medio
Another historic icon, Bodequita del Medio, started as a convenience store in the middle of Empedrado Street. The name literally means “the small store in the middle.” This was another Hemingway hangout. He was known to say, “My mojito in La Bodeguita. My daiquiri in El Floridita.” Mojitos are the bar’s signature drink since 1942. The menu includes all kinds of Cuban cocktails, as well as typical Cuban dishes like white rice, black beans, roasted pork, and fried plantains. Patrons can enjoy their cigars while listening to live Cuban traditional music. This place was CROWDED! Many people flock here to try a mojito, listen to great music, or simply to write their name on the wall.
Back on the Streets
While visiting two Historic Hemingway Hangouts (try saying that three times fast) was interesting, the real action was on the streets and in the plazas. Music could be heard with each step we took. Also, people were dancing in the clubs, on the sidewalks, and in the streets. If I had an ounce of rhythm left in my body, I would have been sorely tempted to rumba, mambo, or cha-cha-cha!
Other locals were simply hanging out, visiting, and playing games. We befriended three men sitting in a vacant storefront engrossed in an intense game of dominoes. They were there when we passed at the start of the evening. Then we saw them again hours later enjoying their Friday evening with the guys.
Gimmicks and Photo Ops
As in any city, there were people out to make a buck that night in Havana. We never felt unsafe or threatened by any of them. One in particular was a lot of fun! Dressed in traditional Cuban clothing (except for her tennis shoes), a woman was smoking a cigar and approaching people to take photos. It was a total gimmick, but for $10 (everyone took USD in Havana), we left with funny photos, two cheap cigars, and a great memory.
Chillin’ Out Late Night in Havana
Before we returned to our ship and beds, we took a few minutes to sit and enjoy the last moments of our night in Havana. The Plaza de la Catedral, with the stoic anchor of La Catedral de la Virgin Maria de la Concepcion de La Habana (Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception), was a great place to end the evening. We could still hear the faint Cuban beat from the block over, but enjoyed a quiet, more peaceful Havana in the plaza. We reflected on our day and night in Havana and agreed that if we get the chance, we will do it all again.
I Loved Havana for a Night on the Town
Traveling to Cuba? Also check out How to Legally Visit Cube from the U.S. and The Top 5 Cities to Visit in Cuba.
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