The Great American road trip can be almost anything. After all, the United States is a HUGE country with so many wonderful things to see and do. But I want to tell you about my favorite Great American road trip: Central Texas to the Grand Canyon. I’ve done this road trip twice, once in my early 20s with a friend and again in my 40s with my family. Both times I’ve loved it. This post embellishes on my original trip itineraries by adding sites I wasn’t able to fit into my 7 to 9 day trips.
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Day 1: Carlsbad Caverns National Park
Our road trip starts today with a drive from Central Texas all the way to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico. This will take about 8 hours, so leave early. Better yet, get a head start the day before and stay in an inexpensive roadside hotel overnight so that you can get to Carlsbad Caverns around noonish. Have lunch in the Visitor’s Center cafe, then start touring!
You will want to make a timed entry reservation in advance. Walk-up tickets are available until 2:15 p.m., but may sell out. There are two self-guided tours you can take, and I recommend you do both. After all, you’ve been sitting in the car for hours – time for some exercise!
Touring the Cave
The Natural Entrance Route is a 1¼-mile route that follows the same path early explorers once used, entering the cavern through the historic natural entrance. From there, the trail descends more than 750 feet underground along steep, winding paths through the Main Corridor, a huge cavern passage. The route ends at the underground rest area near the elevators and the entrance to the Big Room Route. This route is a one-mile walk that loops around the perimeter of the Big Room. Most people spend about an hour and a half on the route, and an audio guide can add helpful background and context throughout the tour. After you finish this route, you can simply take an elevator up to the surface.
Evening Options
After your tour, check into a hotel nearby. I found hotels in Carlsbad to be pretty expensive, so we stayed in nearby Whites City. Find dinner near your hotel, then return to the park for the Bat Flight Program if you are visiting from April through October. The starting time of the talk varies with sunset times – it is best to call the park (575-785-3012) to check for program times. Other things you can do at night include star viewing and night hikes.
Day 2: White Sands National Park
On day two of our road trip, we head to White Sands National Park in Alamogordo, New Mexico. This is about a 3 hour drive. When you arrive in Alamagordo, find some lunch. I also recommend checking into your hotel, even if your room isn’t ready. This is because hotels might have some waxed plastic snow saucers that you can use to sled in the sand at the park to borrow. These can be purchased or rented in the park, but you might as well save some money if you can! We stayed at the White Sands Motel that did have them, but we checked in after visiting the park so missed out.
Afternoon Activities
Now it’s time to enter the park! Stop by the Visitor’s Center to see a orientation video and visit the museum. This will take about 30 minutes. Then get back in the car to take Dunes Drive, an eight-mile scenic drive, leading from the Visitor Center into the heart of the dunes. This hard-surface roadway is suitable for cars, trailers and buses. Allow 40 minutes driving time for the 16-mile roundtrip, plus additional time for walking, photography or stopping at pullouts.
You will definitely want to take some time to sled down the sandy hills. Sit or lay on your back on the top of the sled, with your feet pointing downhill. Do not sled down head first or stand on the sled, to prevent injuries. Sled on gently sloping dunes which have a level run-off at the end so that the sled can stop safely. Make sure the sledding path does not cross traffic and is free from hazards such as vegetation, rocks, or other obstructions.
Evening Activities
Depending on the time of year, the park may be very hot. Go ahead and do the Visitor’s Center and Dunes Drive in the afternoon, then take a break and go back to the park in the evening. It will be far cooler, and there are plenty of great ranger-led programs that occur at night.
Day 3: Petrified Forest National Park & Painted Desert
Today we leave New Mexico and travel down historic Route 66 (now I-40) in Arizona! We have a longish drive today (about 8 hours). But at the end of it, there are some great sites to see! So get an early start.
Visiting the Park
Our goal today is to visit the Petrified Forest National Park and the Painted Desert. You will likely arrive here in the early afternoon. Start first at the Kachina Point for gorgeous views of the Painted Desert. Take some time to explore the exhibits in the Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark located at Kachina Point.
If you are interested in the Puebloan people, make a stop at Puerco Pueblo. Here you will see the remains of a village abandoned in the 1300s. Nearby is Newspaper Rock which contains many rocks and more than 650 petroglyphs dating back 2,000 years. Then drive to the Blue Mesa trailhead. It’s time to stretch your legs, so take the easy 1 mile loop and enjoy the scenery.
Next, visit the Rainbow Forest Museum to learn about petrified wood and explore exhibits of prehistoric animal fossils. This is also where you access the main hiking trails in the Petrified Forest. Definitely take the time to do the Giant Logs Trail. This trail is paved, less than half a mile, and takes you by the largest petrified trees in the park.
If you want to hike a bit more, opt for the Long Logs and Agate House Trails. The Long Logs Trail is a 1.6 mile loop and gives you a view of a larger concentration of petrified wood. The Agate House Trail is about 2 miles roundtrip and brings you to a pueblo house made of petrified wood. There are also other great hiking trails you can take.
Where to Stay
This is controversial, but I highly recommend that you spend the night at the Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, Arizona. This delightfully iconic lodging option allows you to stay in your very own concrete wigwam! I stayed there on both my trips, and I loved it both times. My friend also loved it on my earlier trip. Alas, my family did not love it. Even if you choose not to stay there, stop by for a great photo opportunity. There are other great lodging options in Holbrook other than the Wigwam.
Day 4: Route 66 Sites
Today take some time to enjoy some of the natural and manmade wonders along Route 66. This historic highway played a pivotal role in the development of the American West.
Morning
Stop first at Jack Rabbit Trading Post, which is about a half hour from Holbrook. Follow the signs to this historical trading post that will make you feel like you stepped back in time. This a great place to buy a few souvenirs and grab some snacks for the road.
Another 20 miles away you will find yourself Standing on a Corner Park in Winslow, Arizona. Now this may only be for us old folks as it references the 1972 hit “Take It Easy” by the Eagles. But if you are a fan (or just like fun pop culture references, stop by and take a photo “standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona” with a statue of Glenn Frey.
Nearby, stop to see Meteor Crater Natural Landmark. This impressive site was created by a massive meteor hitting this spot more than 50,000 years ago. There’s quite a bit to do here, so you could spend 2-3 hours here. Just plan to have lunch here.
Afternoon
About 30 minutes from the crater is Walnut Canyon National Monument. This is one of my favorite sites in Arizona. This site has cliff dwellings created by the Sinagua people in the 12th and 13th centuries. Visitors can take a mile-long trail that descends into the canyon to see 25 remarkably intact rooms. There’s also a .7 mile trail along the rim of the canyon that passes a partially restored pueblo and pit house and gives visitors a sense of the flora and fauna of the area. This stop will take 1-2 hours. Be aware that the trails close at 4 p.m. and the monument closes at 5 p.m.
Evening
Once Walnut Canyon closes at 5 p.m., hit the road again for the roughly 2 hour drive to the Grand Canyon. Stop somewhere on the road for diner. Then plan to stay in one of the park’s lodges for two nights. We stayed in Yavapai Lodge. It cost too much for what it is, but think location, location, location
Days 5 & 6: Grand Canyon
Now we get to take a little break from our daily road trip! I’m recommending spending 2 full days in the Grand Canyon. This is enough time to see the highlights and do a little bit of hiking if you want. But just so you know, on my first Great American Road Trip, I spent only 1 day. On my second, I spent 1.5 days. We fit in all of the things below in just 1.5 days, but I’ve never been one to “rest” on vacation!
A visit to the Grand Canyon deserves a series of blog posts just about it alone! So in the interest of this post not getting too long, here are a list of the must-do things you should prioritize:
- Visit the South Rim Visitor’s Center
- Take in the views from Mather Point.
- Walk the Trail of Time at Yavapai Point.
- View sunrise or sunset.
- Hike the Bright Angel Trail (you can go all the way to the bottom of the canyon on this trail, but unless you are super fit, I don’t recommend it; instead, go down 1.5 miles where you will find resthouses and turn around. And if you aren’t super fit or have little kids, don’t even go that far).
- Take the Desert View Drive, stopping at Grandview Point, Navajo Point, Yaki Point, and Watchtower.
- Visit the Tusayan Pueblo Museum.
- Do a self-guided walking tour of the Grand Canyon Village National Historic Landmark District.
- Participate in a Ranger program.
Day 7: National Monuments
Our road trip continues with a six hour drive to Grants, New Mexico. But don’t worry – we have a few stops to break up the journey along the way! Bring a picnic lunch today as there won’t be many places to eat along the way.
Wupatki National Monument
About an hour and a half from the Grand Canyon is Wupatki National Monument. This site has pueblos that were occupied 900 years ago. Wupatki Pueblo is the largest pueblo in the monument with about 100 rooms. There is a 1/2 mile loop trail that begins at the visitor center’s back door. Don’t miss the ball court or the blowhole at the far end of the trail.
You can also visit Lomaki and Box Canyon Pueblos via another easy 1/2 mile trail. These pueblos overlook a pair of small canyons where prehistoric people used dry farming techniques to cultivate corn, beans, squash, and cotton. Another set of pueblos, Citadel and Nalakihu, are located along a 1/4 mile trail. The walkway is flat to Nalakihu, then ascends a steep hill to reach The Citadel’s stunning vistas. Wukoki Pueblo appears alone at the end of its 1/4 mile trail.
After all of this hiking, it’s time for lunch! Enjoy your lunch and then take the Donkey Mountain Trail (1/2 mile) from the picnic area to the top of a volcanic cinder cone that offers spectacular views along the way.
Sunset Crater National Monument
Hop back in the car and drive another 45 minutes to Sunset Crater National Monument. You will spend 1-2 hours here looking at exhibits in the Visitor’s Center and hiking the Lava Flow Trail. This easy and accessible 1 mile trail follows the Bonito Lava Flow and features volcanic geology.
Grants, New Mexico
It’s a little less than four hours between Sunset Crater and Grants, New Mexico. Make the drive, then stay overnight for two nights in Grants.
Day 8: Mines & Monuments
Today we pause our road trip to visit a few more monuments. But start your day at the New Mexico Mining Museum. During your visit, go deep underground to explore a simulated 1950s era uranium mine. When we visited, we were given a tour by a man who had actually worked in the mine. This was really fascinating and one of my favorite parts of our trip. But now it seems that there is only an audio guide. But I still think it’s worth the hour or so to see it and experience what it might have been like to be a miner.
El Malpais National Monument
The bulk of our day is dedicated to El Malpais National Monument. Take a picnic lunch with you, unless you want to return to Grants for lunch.
First, make a stop at the Visitor Center (I-40 on exit 85) to see the orientation video and pick up some maps. Then drive to exit 89 on I-40 and go south on New Mexico Highway 117 for about 11 miles. Here you will see an access road leading up to the to Sandstone Bluffs Overlook. This is a 1.5 mile long gravel road. At the top, park in the parking area and take the quick walk to La Ventana Natural Arch. This is one of the largest natural arches in New Mexico. You can also take the 1 mile Lava Falls loop trail to see a relatively recent lava flow.
There are several picnic places in this area, so eat your lunch here. Or you can have lunch in Grants as you pass through to go the Big Tubes Area of the monument. You can take a series of backcountry dirt roads between the two areas but you need a high-clearance and 4 wheel drive vehicle – my advice is to stick to the paved roads! Take NM-117 W back to I-40, then take exit 81 and turn left onto NM-53. Then turn left on Cibola County-42 until you reach Lava Tubes road.
The Big Trails Area has a two mile long figure-8 shaped loop trail. It’s pretty strenuous due to uneven terrain, so it’s not for everyone. But if you tackle it, you will be rewarded with sites of lava bridges, collapsed lava tubes, and caves.
Land of Fire & Ice (Bandera Volcano & Ice Cave)
Our last stop of the day is about a 30 minute drive from the Big Tubes Area. Take County Road 42 back the way you came to Ice Cave and Bandera Volcano.
Once you arrive, take the Bandera Volcano Trail. This 1/2 mile will take about 40 minutes round trip and winds up the side of the volcano to the crater. Then take the Ice Cave Trail. This one is easier as it is mostly level and takes on about 20 minutes round trip. It leads to the mouth of a cave where you take 69 steps down to a platform where you can see the ice cave.
Both of these hikes start from the Trading Post. Afterwards, browse through the Trading Post’s museum of artifacts and great Native American handicrafts for sale. And you should definitely reward yourself with some ice cream or other snacks and drinks available!
Day 9: Mesas & Mountains
Our road trip continues today as we depart Grants and drive to Albuquerque. This is a short 1.5 hour drive, but we are still going to break it up with a a few activities. The good news is today, you don’t need to pack your lunch!
Acoma Pueblo Sky City
My favorite site in all of New Mexico is Acoma Sky City. This 2,000 year old Pueblo is perched on top of a 367 foot high sandstone mesa and is home to the Acoma people renowned for their pottery. Start your visit at the Sky City Cultural Center where you will board a shuttle to take you up to the mesa top. Then you will have a guided tour of the pueblo from a local resident. It’s fascinating to hear the pueblo’s history and learn about the Acoma culture.
Your guided tour returns to the cultural center where you can view exhibits at the Haak’u Museum. Have lunch at the Yaak’a Cafe. Throughout your visit, you will have the opportunity to purchase Acoma pottery and other native crafts.
Petroglyph National Monument
After visiting Acoma Pueblo, you will drive another hour or so to Petroglyph National Monument. Make sure to arrive no later than 3 p.m. Start at the Information Center to get a map and general information. Then you will need to drive over to the Boca Negra Canyon area, which will take about 10 minutes.
In Boca Negra Canyon, there are three short paved trails where you can see about 100 petroglyphs. The Mesa Point trail will take you about 30 minutes, the Cliff Base Trail will take about 15 minutes, and the Macaw Trail about 5 minutes.
Evening in Albuquerque
Head to your hotel in Albuquerque to check in. Our final activity of the day is taking the Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway to enjoy sunset over the city. You can eat dinner at the top of Sandia Peak at the TEN 3 restaurant. Or for a less touristy experience, eat somewhere in the city before you get on the cable car.
Day 10: Albuquerque & the Long Road Home
Albuquerque is one of my favorite cities, so I recommend lingering for a half day to see the sites before resuming our road trip. But many people aren’t as enamored with Albuquerque as me. If that is you, feel free to start the long road home in the morning!
Morning in Albuquerque
But if you are with me, start your day at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. Here you can view exhibits and artifacts from New Mexico’s 19 different Pueblos. If you happen to visit on a weekend, make sure to attend a cultural dance demonstration at 11 a.m. There are also artists on site daily demonstrating their wares for purchase.
Head over to Old Town to admire the charming cobblestone streets and historic buildings dating from the early 1700s. Here you will find no shortage of lunch options and final opportunities for souvenirs.
The Long Road Trip Home
This is the end of my official trip itinerary. We left Albuquerque and drove to the Lubbock area. There we enjoyed a free bed and breakfast provided by my mom. Then we drove the rest of the way home the following day. Most people returning to Texas from this road trip will want to break up the drive with an overnight stay. Here are some options, each with their own list of great sites to see:
- Amarillo – Things to Do | Hotels
- Canyon – Things to Do | Hotels
- El Paso – Things to Do | Hotels
- Lubbock – Things to Do | Hotels
- Marfa – Things to Do | Hotels
What’s on your Great American Road Trip itinerary?
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